The innovative team at Brown Brothers are always looking for a niche in the market place that they can make the most of and the release in 2008 of their version of  the Italian classic an aperitif style Prosecco sparkling wine is proving to be a winner for them. Light and fresh with delicate characteristics  of citrus apple and pear it can be enjoyed with or with out food. Though it is a relatively young varietal in Australia I can see that an increase in plantings will be on the agenda in areas that provide suitable growing conditions. Prefers a cool climate and the Brown Brothers  Banksdale vineyard in the King Valley seems to be a perfect fit. 

Prosecco is the name of an appellation in north east Italy as well as being the name of a variety. Sparkling Prosecco is made using the Charmat method of sparkling production which is in a pressurised tank to retain the bubbles. The grapes are generally harvested early to get high levels of natural acidity and fresh crisp flavours. Fresh and crisp this style is best consumed while young and fresh, generally retails for around $22.00. Try with the addition of some peach juice or peach puree  to create the classic Bellini that is so popular in Venice Italy.

It is a great drink on its own or would make  a suitable partner to pan fried scallops with a lemon influenced dressing or freshly shucked oysters. Try  with a selection of sushi and sashimi for a great combination.

Have you tried a prosecco yet?

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With the quest on to find the next “big thing ” in white wine , the shelves are alive with bottles clinking  saying  “pick me pick me”  “I`m the one who deserves your attention”.  Rich and textural,  great food matches there are any number of offerings to tempt the palate. These wines are now generally available at reasonable prices  so the consumer can get more adventurous. We seem to forget that our tastes change and who knows what delicious drop we may find once we look past the old favourites.

Arneis -  best consumed young while its distinctive personality is on show. Crisp, dry &  aromatic, almonds, pear juice, fresh apples and stone fruit are  common components of  Arneis. Fresh and dry this variety is sure to find a following in this country. Try with oysters.

Vermentino, another Mediterranean  varietal that is gaining ground. An aromatic white varietyVermentino wines are a pale straw colour and relatively low in alcohol, with crisp acids, citrus-leaf aromatics, and pronounced minerality. In the mouth, Vermentino shows flavours of green apple and lime, heightened by refreshing acidity, good richness and medium body. The wine’s crispness makes it a delicious accompaniment to fresh seafood, oysters, or grilled Mediterranean vegetables.

The Great White Blend - apart from more varieties on offer, winemakers are taking on the challenge and blending different varieties for new styles and food friendly wines.

Volante from T`Gallant (Mornington Peninsula) is a blend of  Pinot Gris, Chardonnay &  Viognier . The strengths of each variety  give surprising depth and complexity with  richness and texture that  makes it a great food wine. Food Match Spicy Thai - Green chicken curry. The richness and fruit sweetness on the palate is a great match with chilli and spice

McHenry Hohnen Wines from Margaret River acknowledge the Mediterranean climate of Margaret River with varieties associated with southern France and Spain (marsanne, roussanne, grenache, graciano, mataro, shiraz, tempranillo).  Add chardonnay, viognier , barbera, sangiovese and zinfandel and we have the foundations  for the McHenry Hohnen range of wines.

  The Three Amigos -  Marsanne, Chardonnay,Rousanne are the trio that make up this elegant blend. This  wine has a subtle nose of dried apricot and apple, underplayed with spice and vanilla seed. The palate is finely textured with weight and richness.

Yangarra Estate  Roussanne (McLaren Vale South Australia) has vibrant spicy and savoury aromatics and stone fruit flavours.  The 2008 Roussanne offers  layers of creamy French pears, fresh peaches and a refreshing acidity.

The 2009 Savagnin wines are starting to appear on our shelves. After much angst for growers and producers who thought they had the Spanish variety Albarino in the bottle last year have had to dust themselves off and deal with what they have -Savagnin which is being made in clean fruity Australian style, well worth trying.  There are any number of new wines out there for the adventurous so go for it and try something you may have not tried before.

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Rich and luscious this is a good time of year to add a dessert wine to your shopping list.  Dessert wines are made in many styles and with varying levels of complexity. Basically sweet white wines fall into two groups -

Late Harvest Wines  are crafted from grapes which are picked late in the season when the grapes are shrivelled on the vine and  high concentration of sugar levels has been reached. Look for Semillon, Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc.

Botrytis affected wines -”Stickies” (refers to the texture) as we commonly call  them,  are intensely flavoured white wines, aromatic and deep gold in colour with rich sweet flavour and hopefully enough acid  to prevent the wine from being cloying.  The majority of “stickies” in Australia are made taking advantage of the natural occurring fungus -botrytis cinerea commonly known as noble rot  whose unique properties  attacks the grapes and gradually consumes the moisture from the grape and intensifies the sugar concentration,  fruit flavour and acidity. Warm damp Autumns encourage the growth of noble rot. The botrytis influence gives a strong honey and musk like character.  Look out for Semillon and Riesling which maintains its delicate citrus flavours. Try adding a few splashes of a Botrytis Semillon at the last minute when making garlic prawns, the honeyed  peachy flavours adds another dimension to an already tasty dish.

If there is any plum pudding or Christmas cake left over do yourself a favour and try it with the delicious Yalumba Museum Muscat. The Muscat grape has many varieties and is used all over the world in various different ways. The grape is sweet and fruity with a rich musky aroma and its greatest success is with sweet wines.  Typically these wines are fortified  (more on fortified wines later) but some late harvest and noble rot wines are made with Muscat grapes. Also called Moscato in Italy, we are now seeing some Australian  producers having great success with Moscato. This sweet, lower alcohol slightly spritzy version a great match with a  sunny afternoon.

Rich and luscious if serving with a dessert the wine needs to be the sweeter of the two. These wines have such depth they can be the dessert. Do not serve too cold.

Stephen Henschke talks about his Muscat of Tappas Pass & the Henschke Noble Semillon and the aspects that match them with food.

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Australian Champagne Guru Bernadette O`Shea has released a book about the subject that inspires her the most. Bernadette lives and breathes Champagne and has released a beautifully presented and delightfully written salute to champagne and its applications - more on the book later, first a bit of personal history.

Winner of  the prestigious Vin de Champagne award ( a unique Australian champagne challenge)  and for her contribution & authority on champagne a beneficiary of the Chevalier de l’ordre du Merite Agricole - the French equivalent of a Knighthood -  this honour can only be given on French soil so a naval vessel was diverted from its duties in the Pacific to host Bernadette’s ceremony in Brisbane. Definitely an occasion to merit a glass or two of champagne. For her services to the wine industry she’s been inducted into the ‘L’ordre des Coteaux de Champagne’. France`s  most famous champagne makers applaud her exceptional palate, profound knowledge and the enthusiasm with which she shares her knowledge -they have been known to refer to her as “Bernadette Bubbles O`Shea”

After Bernadette had her first glass of real champagne her love affair with bubbles began, so with determination to learn all she could about champagne Bernadette started on a journey that has become her life`s work as a champagne and wine educator.  She is now regarded as  a world authority on champagne. In a blind tasting she can pick not only which champagne is which - but also in which village the grapes have been grown.(Yes there really are people who can do this).

A lot of us are busy at this time of the year with the count down to the Festive Season. Champagne being renowned as the drink of celebration Bernadette is in great demand as  Champagne consultant for dinners, talks, launch of her book  etc but still took the time to talk to me via phone and when things are quieter in the New Year we will be doing our best to bring Bernadette to you via video interview. Certainly inspired me already to add more Champagne to my wish list. 

Bernadette spoke about the great ability of Champagne  to match with a wide range of foods. Acid in champagne cuts through fat and salt, bubbles move grease from mouth and cleanse the palate, a serious and versatile food wine and can be drunk throughout a meal rather than simply as an aperitif. To that oft asked question Do you have a favourite Champagne? Bernadette responded with  “It would be like choosing a favourite child which is impossible as they are all have their special attributes and characteristics and we love them all as individuals”

Champagne & Chandeliers : Grand Dining Celebrations

The book celebrates the many things Bernadette loves about Champagne, with stories, dinners and tastings. Bernadette takes us with story and images to some very famous occasions involving history, politics, romance, fashion and art. Photographs of original menus are featured from Royal Weddings to Political Summits. Bernadette with her unique knowledge  provides Champagne matches for the entire menu, telling us why they match the food and what is unique about each Champagne. The journey takes us   from the dining table of Louis XV at Versailles  to the White House . We meet Rémi Krug at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Hong Kong amongst the many other memorable  occasions. Plus profiles on 30 Champagne Houses which give us great insight into the long colourful history of Champagne.  The book has a fabulous collection of rare and privileged photographs that transport us  from aged cellar treasures of Champagne houses to fine art,  dazzling chandeliers and so much more.

Beautifully written and presented it is not a book you will want to hide away on a book shelf, but on the coffee table where you can pick it up and peruse at you leisure.

Leave your email address if you are looking to buy this book and I can send you details.

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   This is an update from Paxton Wines that have featured on the blog previously (July 2009) regarding their commitment to sustainable farming practice, organics and bio dynamic principles.

In January 2008 Paxton (McLaren Vale South Australia) became the first Australian Winery to join the 1% For the Planet Group a global organisation of environmentally aware businesses  that donate 1% of their annual sales to environmental causes. Since its establishment in 2002 1%FTP has grown into a global community  and consists of 1,246 companies and a network of 1,837 environmental organisations world wide. With their second donation Paxton is continuing  to support a local group “Friends of Aldinga Scrub” who continue to work with revegetation & weed control, with the aim to  protect and improve habitat for threatened and endangered plant species. This group are working tirelessly to protect and conserve the last remaining area of native coastal vegetation of the Adelaide plane.

General Manager of Paxton`s Toby Bekkers comments “We are incredibly proud to be a member of 1% FTP and support this inspiring organisation which is connecting like minded businesses around the world who are financially committed to environmental protection”.  

With all the businesses involved donating to environmental projects whether it is in their own areas or not, collectively they are making a difference and should be applauded for their commitment to a sustainable future.

Congratulations also to Seresin Estate.  At the recent Organics Aotearoa Conference in New Zealand  Seresin was  awarded  Organic Producer of the Year.  The annual awards recognise people and organisations leading the way in organics.

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Nothing new about this rum but Pusser`s  only became available to the public  since 1980. Pusser`s  British Navy Rum is the same Admiralty blend of five West Indian rums as issued daily to seamen  on board early British warships. The tradition of issuing a tot of rum goes back to the earliest days of wooden ships and Empire building and was part of every day naval life for around  300 years so  this rum has a long and colourful history.  Today’s Pusser’s Rum, known as “the single malt of rum” is still produced in exact accordance with the Admiralty’s specifications for rum. Unlike most rums, Pusser’s uses no flavouring agents. It is 100% natural.  Pusser’s has been  awarded Gold Medals at various premier events such as-  the International Wine & Spirits Festival. In 2003, Pusser’s Rum won a “Double Gold Medal” at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and a Gold Medal at the same festival in 2005.

This legendary rum,  is said by experts to be rich and full-bodied, with an unsurpassed smoothness due to its natural ingredients. Pusser’s costs a little more because it is more expensive to produce. It is predominantly a “pot-stilled” rum. The distillation process is similar to that used for single malt scotches, which produces greatly enhanced flavour. Served neat or on the rocks, or mixed and taste the full flavours of this dark rum.

The name Pusser’s is  a corruption of the name purser after the officer on board ship who was responsible for stores and the daily issue of rum. Thus the name Pusser’s Rum.  It was stopped being issued to seaman in the 1970`s but from my observance creates a feeling of nostalgia and that is even before consumption!!!

Another premium spirit I have seen about is Strom which is made in Australia. Using a “secret” Czech recipe  and  infused with an interesting array of Australian botanicals which add  extra dimension and flavours.  High in alcohol it has a  warm, smooth finish and vanilla notes.

Will be writing more about premium spirits at a future date and cocktails which are so much more than just a pretty drink

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Galli Estate was the vision of Tuscan born Lorenzo Galli who came to Australia in the 1950’s. It was moving full circle for Lorenzo, whose family had made wine in Italy for generations.
Two vineyard sites were carefully selected, in the Heathcote and Sunbury wine regions of Victoria. Each was planted with grape varieties that ideally suited their individual soils and climate.
The rich red volcanic soils of Sunbury and the famous Cambrian soils of Heathcote were fundamental to Lorenzo’s dream. They are the key to wines that honestly reflect their origins and bring pleasure to those that share them.

Established in 1997 the Galli Estate Rockbank vineyard occupies 50 hectares just 40 minutes northwest of Melbourne CBD. Along with the vineyard, there is a state of the art winery, cellar door and restaurant. The region offers a generally cool climate with a relatively cool and dry growing season. Vintage takes place from late March through April to early May.
The Rockbank vineyard features rich red volcanic soil over clay loam, interspersed with rocky outcrops. The vineyard is on a north-south axis and the vine trellising uses vertical  shoot positioning to increase exposure to sunlight.
The Rockbank area is best known for its Shiraz, and Galli Estate Sunbury Shiraz shows the hallmark regional characters of spicy minerally blackberry fruit, cracked black pepper, and bitter chocolate
Other grapes such as Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc grow beautifully here, along with elegant Cabernet Sauvignon. Further development is continuing with plantings of some exciting new Italian varietals.

Planting commenced in 2000 at Galli Estate’s Heathcote vineyard, known as Camelback after the nearby Camel Ranges. The vineyard now comprises some 110 hectares. Located in Central Victoria about 100 kms north of Melbourne, the Heathcote wine region is classified as warm and rainfall is limited. The growing season is warm and dry with relatively even temperature ranges during the ripening season. The harvest occurs from mid-March.
The Camelback vineyard features Shiraz, a variety now recognised as producing exceptional wines in Heathcote, along with smaller plantings of two other “Rhone” varieties; Viognier and Grenache. In keeping with Lorenzo’s innovative nature, the balance is planted with less common grapes such as Sangiovese, Tempranillo and Nebbiolo, which all show exciting potential.

Distributed by Kathryn Mellen Premium Regional Wines (PRW)

I am a fan of these wines and think they deliver good value for money. The Pinot Grigio is a fresh white wine showing melon, lemon and musk flavours with a hint of almond. The palate is long with a clean refreshing finish. A stylish modern white wine for early enjoyment. Pale in colour, this wine exhibits aromas of melon, lemon and grapefruit. The palate exhibits these flavours plus musk, almond, and some floral notes. It is a soft textured wine which finishes clean and fresh. The perfect accompaniment to stronger flavoured fish, and other seafood. Pan seared mackerel with fresh tomato and bay leaves.

It is always good to try some blends you may not have considered before so look out for the TGM            Tempranillo/Grenache/Mourvedre

This wine is inspired by the young gluggable wines from the Rioja region in north-eastern Spain. It is a blend of Tempranillo (juicy blackberry spiciness), Grenache (earthy raspberry), and Mourvedre (brooding dusty dark berries).

The full of juicy dark berry fruits, earthiness, and a hint of smoke. The palate is brimming with gorgeous juicy plum, macerated raspberry and blackberry, earth savoury notes, and dried undergrowth. The finish is soft and satisfying, with gentle tannins. A well balanced wine that is very Moorish.

Food Matches: Spicy cured meats, roast pork, cotechino (an Italian fresh pork sausage )or chorizo sausage.

Enjoy and keep an eye out for the full range

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This blog brings more from Mike Edwards on the varieties and blends for which Margaret River is renowned. There is a new wave of wineries from Western Australia that are making their presence felt on wine lists, in retail, winning awards and gaining recognition. This is a great achievement for small family owner operator wineries, that apart from producing good booze, have to build a brand in an incredibly competitive environment. Edwards Wines are certainly part of this movement so over to Mike to tell us more

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